Bootcut and flare jeans both open up below the knee, so it’s easy to mix them up. But the shape, attitude, and shoes they go with are all a little different. As denim experts, we’ve designed plenty of both, and knowing the difference makes the flare vs. bootcut decision way easier, whether you’re shopping for flare jeans or dressier flare and bootcut pants.
What Are Bootcut Jeans?
Bootcut jeans fit close through the hip and thigh, then open into a slight flare from just below the knee to the hem. They were originally cut to slide over boots, which is still one of the easiest ways to wear them.
- Fit: Fitted at the hip and thigh, with a straight line through the knee.
- Flare: A subtle, gradual widening that starts just below the knee.
- Length: Usually full length, long enough to cover the top of a boot or skim the top of your shoe. We’ve also got bootcut crop jeans that show a little ankle.
- Vibe: Classic and easy to dress up or down. Try our AE Low-Rise Kick Bootcut Jean for a true Y2K vibe, in soft, stretchy denim.
What Are Flare Jeans?
Flare jeans are fitted through the hip and thigh, then widen dramatically from around the knee into a wide, eye-catching hem. The look has ’70s roots, and it’s been a denim favorite ever since.
- Fit: Fitted at the hip and thigh.
- Flare: A bold widening that starts at or slightly above the knee.
- Length: Typically long, designed to fall close to the floor when worn with shoes.
- Vibe: Retro, playful, and made to stand out. Browse our flare jeans to see the full range of washes and rises.
Key Differences Between Bootcut and Flare Jeans
When it comes to bootcut jeans vs. flare, the real difference is how dramatically the fit widens at the knee. Both cuts share the same fitted top, but bootcut keeps things subtle while flare goes all in. Here’s how bootcut vs. flare stack up side by side:
| Feature | Bootcut Jeans | Flare Jeans |
|---|---|---|
| Hip and thigh fit | Fitted | Fitted |
| Where the flare starts | Just below the knee | At or slightly above the knee |
| Leg opening | Slightly wider than the knee | Noticeably wide at the hem |
| Overall shape | Subtle and streamlined | Bold, with a clear retro kick |
| Go-to shoes | Boots, booties, sneakers, flats | Platforms, heels, wedges, chunky boots |
| Vibe | Everyday classic | Statement-making, ’70s-inspired |
Silhouette and Leg Opening
As the table shows, the biggest visual tell is the hem: bootcuts land just a touch wider than the knee, while flares finish with a wide, sweeping opening you can spot from across the room.
Where the Flare Begins
The other key detail is where the widening kicks in, with bootcuts easing out just below the knee and flares starting their sweep at or slightly above it.
How to Choose Between Flare and Bootcut Jeans
Bootcut jeans are a go-to if you want something that works for almost anything on your calendar, from campus to class to weekend plans. The shape is low-key enough to be your everyday pair while still giving you a little movement at the hem. If you love a classic, versatile look, bootcut makes a lot of sense.
Flare jeans are for the days you want your denim to be the main character. They bring instant retro energy and turn a simple tee into a whole outfit. At the end of the day, the right pick comes down to your personal style and how you want to feel in your jeans, and there’s no wrong answer in the bootcut vs. flare debate. Plenty of people keep both in rotation.
By Height and Leg Length
Any height can wear either cut, and the real key is getting the length right. Both styles look their best when the hem falls where you want it with the shoes you’ll actually wear.
- Flares need length: Choose an inseam that lets the hem skim the floor with your go-to shoes, especially if you like wearing them with platforms or heels.
- Bootcuts are more forgiving: Since the flare is subtler, a bootcut can land at the top of your shoe or slightly above and still look intentional.
- Check your options: Look at the inseam and available length options on each pair so you’re not stuck hemming or cuffing later. Many women’s AE jeans come in extra-short, short, long, and extra-long.
By Fit Preference
How you like your jeans to feel matters just as much as how they look. Think about the amount of volume you want below the knee and how much of a statement you want to make.
- Want a streamlined feel? Bootcut gives you a clean line with just a hint of movement at the hem.
- Love extra swing? Flare gives you more fabric and flow below the knee, plus that unmistakable retro shape.
- Rise matters too: Both cuts come in a range of rises, so pick the one that feels most comfortable on you.
Styling Bootcut and Flare Jeans
Now that you’ve got flare vs. bootcut down, it’s time for the fun part: building outfits. Both cuts share a fitted top half, so a lot of the same pieces work with either. Here are a few pairings that never miss:
- Fitted tops: A slim tee, tank, or bodysuit balances the extra volume at the hem.
- Tucked button-ups: A tucked-in button-up shirt shows off the waist and keeps the look polished.
- Cozy knits: A cropped or half-tucked sweater gives either cut an easy, fall-ready feel.
- Boots of any kind: From booties to taller boots, they’re made to sit under that open hem.
What to Wear with Bootcut Jeans
Wondering what to wear with bootcut jeans? Think everyday basics like tees, button-ups, sweaters, and denim or utility jackets. For shoes, boots and booties are the classic choice, but sneakers and flats work great too.
Outfit 1: Weekend Easy
- Top: A relaxed graphic tee, front-tucked.
- Jeans: Medium-wash bootcut jeans at full length.
- Shoes: Clean white sneakers for all-day comfort.
- Extra: A crossbody bag and an oversized denim or utility jacket for cooler days.
Outfit 2: Fall Night Out
- Top: A fitted ribbed sweater or bodysuit in a rich neutral.
- Jeans: Dark-wash bootcut jeans for a polished look.
- Shoes: Heeled ankle booties tucked under the hem.
- Extra: Gold hoops and a structured shoulder bag.
What to Wear with Flare Jeans
When it comes to what to wear with flare jeans, fitted or cropped tops keep the focus on that dramatic hem. Platforms, heels, wedges, and chunky boots add height under the flare and let it fall the way it’s designed to.
Outfit 1: Retro Weekend
- Top: A fitted baby tee or cropped tank.
- Jeans: High-rise light-wash flare jeans.
- Shoes: Platform sneakers or clogs.
- Extra: Tinted sunglasses and a suede or fringe bag for full 70s energy.
Outfit 2: Dinner and Drinks
- Top: A tucked satin blouse or crisp button-up.
- Jeans: Dark-wash flare jeans that skim the floor.
- Shoes: Block heels or pointed-toe boots.
- Extra: A statement belt and a small shoulder bag.
Flare vs. Bootcut Jeans FAQs
What is the difference between bootcut and cowboy cut jeans?
Bootcut jeans flare slightly from the knee to the hem, while cowboy cut jeans keep a straight leg that’s just wide enough to fit over boots. Cowboy cuts are designed with riding and ranch work in mind, so they often have a higher rise and sturdier denim.
What shoes are most commonly worn with flare jeans?
Platforms, heels, wedges, and chunky boots are the most common picks for flare jeans because they add height under the wide hem and keep it from dragging. Platform sneakers and clogs work great for a more casual look.
What’s the difference between flare jeans and bell-bottoms?
Bell-bottoms are an extra-wide take on the flare, with a dramatic bell-shaped opening at the hem. Flare jeans are a broader category that can range from a moderate kick to a full, wide sweep.